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Big, brawny, friendly
By
Matt Mathrani
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Click on the link for a handy PDF version of our July 2008 Chicago travel feature!
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Chicago
You're going to enjoy this swaggering city!
Abuzz with gay life, this national urban treasure vaunts breathtaking architecture, A-1 art, world-class sports, and lip-smacking eateries. And Chicagoans are some of the nicest, most approachable folk you'll ever meet.
Getting around the "Windy City" is, well, a breeze, and an automobile is just not necessary. The historic "L" (the trains operated by the Chicago Transit Authority, or CTA) is easy to navigate and operates 24 hours a day.
The gay scene is concentrated in the East Lakeview area, or "Boystown," on the CTA's Red Line (both the Belmont and Addison stations are right in the heart of it all). The 22 Clark and 36 Broadway bus also run here. Things are a-happening in the streets around West Belmont, North Halsted, North Clark, and Broadway, with most places just a short walk of each other. The lakeside lawn where Lincoln Park meets Belmont Street is a popular gay sunning spot, as are the sands of Hollywood Beach, further north.
Andersonville is a thriving multi-ethnic neighborhood with restaurants, cafes, and gay clubs on North Clark Street near Foster Avenue. Plus there's another cluster of rainbow businesses, further up Clark in the New North.
The old gay district, from Gold Coast to the Loop (Downtown area) still has some noteworthy venues. Around Wicker Park and the Southport station there are "alternative" stores and cafes.
Center on Halsted (3656 N. Halsted), the Midwest's largest comprehensive center serving the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (GLBT) community of Chicago, offers support networks and programs that meet the cultural, emotional, spiritual, social, educational, and recreational needs of GLBT youth, adults, seniors, and families. Located blocks from Chicago's historic Wrigley Field in the heart of the Lakeview neighborhood or "Boystown," the three-story, 65,000-square feet Center on Halsted includes a Whole Foods Market and cafe, conference and office space, a theater, a computer technology center, a multipurpose gymnasium and a rooftop garden. It is also home to 10 "community partners," smaller non-profit organizations that either receive operational support from or have office space within the Center. For more information, visit Centeronhalsted.org.
Among local gay media are Gay Chicago Magazine, Chicago Free Press, Boi Magazine, Windy City Times (a group that includes Windy City Radio / Windy City Queercast, Out Guide, and Nightspots). Chicago Reader and New City also cover gay happenings. The Chicago Area Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce, and Boys Town Chicago each have informative websites.
Events
This summer, take a trip to the largest event Chicago has to offer: Northalsted Market Days, "the Midwest's Largest GLBT Street Fest." When it comes to people-watching, hot music acts, arts and crafts and zany fun, Chicago's two-day North Halsted Market Days is a magnet for gays and lesbians around the country. Sponsored by the North Halsted Area Merchants Association, this iconic annual event is celebrating its 27th year on Saturday and Sunday, August 9-10, on Halsted between Belmont and Addison -- the heart of Chicago's Boystown neighborhood. Market Days draws more than 150,000 visitors and boasts 17 entrance gates; four music stages with non-stop local, regional and nationally acclaimed performers; and 400 arts, crafts and food vendors. Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. each day. Gate donation: $6. Updates and more info at Chicago Special Events Management, or call 773-868-3010.
The Aids Run & Walk (Aidsrunwalk.org) happens September 20. This fundraiser held in Grant Park (also called the city's front yard) is a popular event. Also in the fall, check out the North Halsted Street Halloween Parade, October 31st, featuring live music and entertainment; more info at Chicagospecialevents.com.
It's best to book early for the 2009 Memorial Day weekend -- mega-big in gay Chicago. Thousands of leather, uniform, and fetish men from around the world converge here annually to party, network, and choose the new International Mr. Leather. This year, Gary Iriza of Palm Springs is Mr. IML 2008, with Bob Firth-Tessier of Montreal and Scott Melton of Fort Lauderdale as runners-up. And the top dog in the International Mr. Bootblack contest is Bootdog of the Alameda County Leather Corps in Castro Valley, California. Test the limits of your stamina at this mega-event with four days of events you'll never forget. On the same weekend, several bear events are scheduled, and with Gay Chicago's Grabbie Awards taking place, there are male porn stars making appearances at venues around town.
Bars
Halsted nightlife has a lot to offer. Sidetrack (3349 N. Halsted) is at the heart of gay Chicago. One of America's best video bars, this consistently popular, beautifully designed, award-winning club has five bars, each with its own distinct ambiance. Laugh and sing with the crowd to the queer and eclectic fare from Sidetrack's amazing archives. It all plays on the giant screen of the big, dark, two-level central bar and on video monitors in the adjacent bars. On Sundays and Mondays, see and hear Best of Hollywood and Broadway show tunes. Tuesdays and Wednesdays feature the Best of Sidetrack favorites. Thursday's all-comedy nights are a highlight of the week. Friday and Saturdays ring in a hi-energy mix. The spacious, bright, and smoke-free garden-under-glass bar (open year-round) has a street-entry patio. The bigger-than-ever roof-deck bars are great for enjoying conversation, open sky, and for tasting one of Sidetrack's signature frozen drink specialties. Valet parking is available.
Roscoe's (3356 N. Halsted) celebrates its 21st birthday this year as an entertainment hotspot with daily drink specials. VJs Bobby and Kevin provide Sunday video entertainment, and at 5 p.m. there's Male Call, a flirting game hosted by Miss Foozie. Enjoy an evening of entertainment with Roscoe's Monday Night Music Showcase, or play Lotto Karaoke on the dance floor. A tantalizing array of salads, sandwiches, and burgers are served fresh at Roscoe's Sidewalk Café in the summer. Upcoming events include an annual Halloween Costume contest and frequent CD and DVD giveaway promotions.
Berlin (954 W. Belmont) is one of America's most exciting and spontaneous dance clubs and "remains at the cutting edge of club culture," says New City Magazine. A rotating lineup of DJs and VJs keeps the music fresh. "If you love music and like to dance, you'll especially enjoy Berlin because the sound system is top-notch and the floor is always pumping," declares the Chicago Tribune. The crowd stays late, until 4 a.m. (5 a.m. on Saturday). Berlin's line-up includes Cheap Ass Tuesdays with $1 drinks; Elevated Thursdays with DJ Heather Doble and emerging DJs. On Fridays it's Cosmix, with DJ Greg Haus spinning a magic musical web of trance, hardhouse, breakbeat, and progressive. Saturdays are truly "Twisted"; Sunday's are "Modifyd" alternative/pop with DJ Chester and the most popular night here.
Spin (800 W. Belmont) dance club professes to offer "an original blend of fruit flavors" every night of the week. Whether you're gay, straight, not sure, or just not saying, spin nightclub offers three full service bars and a retro lounge complete with incredible sound and light system.
Now in its 25th year, Bucks (3439 N. Halsted) has been dubbed "a gay Cheers on Halsted." There's never a cover to get in and this old style bar features a great beer garden where they hold barbecues every weekend. You'll find a friendly atmosphere here with no attitude.
Cell Block (3702 N. Halsted) a popular leather bar on Halsted. Great staff and a welcoming crowd make this bar a notable stop during your visit to Chicago. Cellblock shares a common management with the Detroit Eagle (in Detroit!). This three-room bar is jam-packed Thursdays for their low drink price specials.
For 25 years Chicago's original gay sports bar, the North End (3733 N. Halsted) is a neighborhood tavern with video, four pool tables, three dartboards, and a sporting attitude. They have an athletic crowd and sponsor leagues in touch football, water polo, darts, bowling, softball, and volleyball. On most any visit, you are sure to run into some of the hot team players. Catch the games on their numerous monitors, or play "Golden Tee." Drinks specials are on Mondays through Thursdays, and frequent special events (especially on Saturdays) fill the calendar. Weekly draws include Wednesday karaoke with free pool and a taco bar. There's a Sunday buffet, and on Thursdays enjoy a big helping of George's chili to go with the inexpensive beer pitchers. The North End will celebrate the big summer events, plus they'll sponsor the Senior Cup (over-40 softball league) over the Labor Day weekend. Visiting porn stars appear here for video-release parties and for the annual Sunday brunch after the Grabbys on Memorial Day weekend. Need cash? There's an onsite ATM, and credit cards are accepted.
Circuit/Rehab (3641 N. Halsted) -- an innovative, youthful high-energy dance club with a strong dash of Latino flavor -- has no shyness about the male "body beautiful." The place comes with digital JBL sound, an enlarged dance floor, retro-mod decor, and multiple lounge seating.
You'll find Cocktail (3359 N. Halsted) strategically located in the heart of Boystown. This luscious lounge looking out over the best corner in Chicago, and is now a stylish, trendy bar with vibrant music. It's a mixed crowd, all in a pleasant, easy-going atmosphere. Tuesdays are hosted by Miss Foozie. You'll also get to hear some of the hottest DJs around, such as DJ Dhanna, showcasing their current play lists.
There are two show bars at the Lucky Horseshoe (3169 N. Halsted) where you'll find Chicago's sexiest assembly of handsome young male dancers. This is the only place in town with shows every day of the week. Dancers strut weekend afternoons and seven nights a week. During the performances, amiable young men strip and tease for an appreciative audience atop platforms in the front and back bars. There's never a cover charge, but bring some folding money to let 'em know who you like! Watch for the cookouts, buffets, and other special theme parties. There is something for everyone here at "The Shoe."
Scarlet (3320 N. Halsted), the newest addition to the Halsted corridor, is a neighborhood pub with a classy but unpretentious look during the day with the Cubs on TV, Wii being played, and friends chatting away. At night, DJs spin five nights a week, and people can't stop dancing to funky house sounds wherever they stand. On Sunday nights, Scarlet puts on a weekly party known as the First Ward Ball where you might see a hot go-go dancer, a glamorous drag queen, or the famous Scarlet Chicken.
Gentry on State (440 N. State), a downtown cabaret/video lounge, has a busy Happy Hour. Throughout the week, you'll enjoy standards and pop hits as well as musical theater tunes, jazz, and comedy from both the regular and new entertainers.
Hydrate (3458 N. Halsted) is a stylish dance club and lounge with a late-hour license and top-level DJs. Up front, large windows open to the corner of Halsted and Cornelia for breezy early-hour seating, but they're busiest after-hours on weekends as other bars close.
Also in the area are: Bobby Love's (3729 N. Halsted), a piano bar; Charlie's (3726 Broadway), for country music and two-step dancing till 2 a.m. and late dance-club music; Kit Kat Lounge and Supper Club (3700 N. Halsted), a bar and supper club; Little Jim's (3501 N. Halsted), a traditional no-nonsense men's bar that's open late; Minibar (3341 N. Halsted), small, stylish, and chic, linked to their sister bar next door, Winebar (3339 N. Halsted).
A little further north, Crew Bar and Grill (4808 N. Broadway; Worldsgreatestbar.com) is in the heart of Uptown at the Lawrence Red Line L stop with the 36 bus stopping at their door. Crew boasts great beer, tasty food, and a friendly staff. With a satellite HDTV on a 92-inch screen along with multiple monitors showing up to eight games at once, you'll always find your favorite team. After the games there's the best in music and video. A selection of 65 beers is on tap and in bottle. They serve favorite game-time appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and desserts, inside or at sidewalk tables. There are daily bottle and pints of beer specials, plus monthly parties such as "Hot Jock, Jockstrap Contest" (fourth Fridays). Their online calendar of detailed to-do's is updated regularly. Wilde Pug (4810 N. Broadway) is their sister venue just two doors away. This modern English pub with a dance floor slated to open this late summer promises "drinking, dancing, and just enough debauchery."
In Andersonville, the Chicago Eagle (5015 N. Clark), successor bar to the legendary Gold Coast, was (with Chuck Renslow) at the heart of events from which the leather movement emerged and was crucial to the founding of International Mr. Leather. Wall murals by leather artist Etienne, leather and erotic movies on the big video screen, plus a friendly male leather crowd, great dance space, and a fantastic staff make it a must-visit evening. Their "brother" venue Man's Country is just steps away.
Further up Clark, in the New North, the Jackhammer (6406 N. Clark), connected to Mephisto Leather (see the shopping section), boasts a bar in back with a strict leather/fetish dress code in effect, Friday and Saturday nights.
After 30 years, Touché (6412 N. Clark) still has want it takes to keep Chicago's leather, bear and kinky crowd coming back again and again. Located in Chicago's Rogers Park area, the bar features a front bar with a pool table, darts, and video games with great music, sports, and porn on the screens. The Club Room bar in the rear is open late nights Tuesday and Thursday through Sunday for the adventuresome crowd. Touché hosts regular bar nights for local and visiting leather clubs on Fridays. Saturdays rock till 5 a.m. every week with a rotating line up. Get here early or be prepared to wait in line for the bar's monthly Bear Night the first Saturday each month hosted by the Great Lakes Bears. The Dungeon Master Night on second Saturdays draws a packed house for the featured S&M demos at midnight. Get your gear on for Touché's GEAR Night on third Saturdays: you'll need it for entry to the back bar. Porn stars, special contests, and other fetish parties are also on the bar's schedule. Touché's Sunday Beer Bust offers a great deal in the city, 50¢ drafts of Bud and Bud Light all day/all night. They also offer a budget crunch relief deal with $2.50 PBR longnecks and $1 Cactus Juice shots Mondays through Thursday along with daily promotions.
Rounding out the local Andersonville and upper Clark Street scene are: Clarks On Clark (5001 N Clark), with a late-night crowd, and Hamburger Mary's (5400 N. Clark), featuring a great retro eating space and a grand show space upstairs called Mary's Attic.
Chicago Diner (3411 N. Halsted) is an award-winning vegetarian restaurant with fantastic food choices that includes non-dairy desserts that will blow your mind. If you are new to a vegan lifestyle or just want to see what it is all about, you cannot go wrong sampling the food here. Conveniently located on Halsted, pay a visit and don't forget to order dessert!
Saunas and such
Steamworks (3246 N. Halsted; Steamworksonline.com) attracts men of all ages, races, body types, and occupations to what they're proud to call the country's finest, most modern and immaculate gym-and-sauna combination -- right in the heart of gay Halsted. There's a marvelous steamroom, dry-sauna, labyrinth, and the spotless whirlpool holds more than 50 men. There are showers, a snack area, a 2000-square-foot gym, free wi-fi, a pool table, a fireplace video lounge, and lockers. The over 90 private rooms come in basic, standard, large, XL, and "Xtreme." There's a 32 channel x-rated video system (in public places and all but the basic rooms). Private and public play-spaces are filled with lots of hot, humpy, and horny guys cruising the maze of halls. Live DJs play hot music mixes, and it's all-open all day, every day. Steamworks has three other locations. Check out the San Juan, Berkeley, and Toronto facilities, too. Visit their website to sign onto their mailing list for special offers and updates.
Man's Country (5017 N. Clark) is a membership bathhouse club, with Chicago's only totally nude male strip shows (on Fridays and Saturdays just past midnight). They feature live on-stage nude appearances by their own stable of exceptional men, plus regional visitors and guests from among the nation's sexiest male porn stars -- all performing for you like they can't anywhere else in town, with more than just the usual bump and grind. There's no additional charge for the shows, but the performers come down into the towel-clad audience after the show to mingle for tips. All-male videos from their own unique collection of classics and eye-catching video collages play on the giant screens to an ever-changing beat from the sound system. This bathhouse never closes and boasts a large steam room, a huge whirlpool, a JO video room, lockers and rooms -- single, double, and fantasy.
The legendary Bijiou Theater (1349 N. Wells) continues to present the latest and greatest porn films on their big screen theater. Convenient to downtown hotels, the Bijou presents a new double bill show every Friday with Bijou Classics featured every Monday. The theater also hosts live shows including a monthly appearance by Chicago Beef Dancers on the third Friday of every month and special appearances by top porn stars. By far the biggest attraction of the Bijou is the second-floor sex club. Guests can explore a gay man's fantasy playground with tons of glory holes, dark corners, and a complete dungeon with slings, crosses, and more. Rent a locker, ditch you clothes, and feel free to get carried away. During Chicago's warm months, guests can also enjoy the Bijou Gardens, a great outdoor oasis in the middle of the city. In the theater's lobby there's a huge selection of DVDs available for purchase. Browse at the counter or use the free computer set up to explore Bijou's website listing over 14,000 titles. Watch for news of their big 40th anniversary coming this fall.
Shopping and services
There are several good gay-interest video stores in town, but R.J.'s Video (3452 N. Halsted), Chicago's first gay-and-lesbian video store, is the most centrally located, and they're open 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. For 24 years RJ's has offered a full range of mainstream and gay adult titles. You can buy or rent videos, and there are special-event ticket sales here, too. RJ, himself a font of local lore, is happy to help you find whatever you seek.
Ram Bookstore (3511 N. Halsted) has male videos and a big selection of DVDs (over 2,000 gay titles) and magazines that includes many hard-to-find-elsewhere titles. Also get lubes, condoms, sex toys, and novelties here. Ram is open late (until 6 a.m. daily) and has an extensive video screening area with 58 busy private viewing booths and a maze.
The affiliated Banana Video (4923 N. Clark, 2nd floor) is open late -- until 2 a.m. weekdays, 4 a.m. weekends, and midnight Sundays -- with a large (3,000 gay titles) selection of the latest in male erotic and general-release videos for sale or rent on DVD and VHS. Adult toys and dildos, bondage equipment, and lotions and lubes are for sale, and they have a comfortable private viewing area, too.
Two stores at Boystown's center always have the newest and most comprehensive selection of gay and quirky merchandise. Ragin' Raejean's (3450 N. Halsted) has novelty and greeting cards, naughty magnets, candles, balloons, collectibles, figurines, Wizard of Oz items, plus holiday trimmings. Steve Walker cards and prints and a complete line of Wim Griffith sculptures are available here, too. Gay Mart (3457 N. Halsted) has several rooms full of t-shirts, cards, gay novelties, stuffed animals, jewelry, and more.
Chicago Tattooing and Piercing Company LTD (1017 W. Belmont Avenue), is a well-established state-of-the-art studio around with the finest artists and support staff. Just about any tattoo can be had here, along with a full range of precise piercing. If not godliness, there's a strong accent on cleanliness here!
Apropos the role of cattle in Chicago history, fine quality tanned hide products are the specialty of several stores.
Mephisto Leathers (6406 N. Clark), sandwiched between Jackhammer and Touché, offers the finest quality custom-made leather items, alterations, and repairs, plus ready-to-wear clothing, toys, boots, swimwear, and accessories. Eagle Leathers and Head 2 Toe Piercing (5005 N. Clark; Eagleleatherschicago.com) has a first-rate selection of ready-to-wear jackets, vests, chaps, pants, shorts, boots, hats, and body jewelry. Expert tattoos and piercing are available, too. They also carry bondage and SM gear, novelties, and toys. See their online catalog.
Leather Sport (3505 N. Halsted) has leather clothing and erotic underwear, bondage gear, paddles, floggers, and toys for all the big bad boys (and girls). They have the largest selection in town of cock rings, pumps, stimulators, and other devices. Also in stock are fetish videos, including those from "Dick Wadd Productions." Their sister store, Cupids
Shel-don Custom Leather (3922 N. Broadway) offers custom leather creations and alterations, plus accessories, rubber, toys, fragrances, and slings.
Leather Archives and Museum (6418 N. Greenview; 773-761-9200; Leatherarchives.org) is a unique window into leather past. Collected and donated posters, magazines, clothing, artwork, and photos chronicle the history and sensibilities of the worldwide leather and bondage community from its inception.
Other area stores include: Alley (W. Belmont at N. Clark), a rambling cornucopia of -- well, you name it; Batteries Not Included (3420 N. Halsted), with cards, oils, toys, harnesses, and other adult playthings; Brown Elephant Resale Resale (3651 N. Halsted), a resale shop with used books, clothing, and such; Chicago Male (3418 N. Halsted), for hair, face, and body care; Robert Jeffrey Hair Studio (3436 N. Halsted), a hair and skin care salon; and Universal Gear (3153 N. Broadway).
Rubin's Chicago Room Gallery Cafe (3318 N. Halsted) features paintings and sculpture by renowned artist Marc Rubin, and other artists of international fame. They offer free wi-fi if you're in need.
Accommodations
Best Western Hawthorne Terrace (3434 N. Broadway; 888-401-8781) is your best hotel option (with adjacent parking) for a central location, just minutes' walk from all the Halsted nightclubs, restaurants, shops, and the lakefront, too. Rooms have conveniences such as two-line phones with data ports, cable TV, wi-fi, microwave, refrigerator, and irons. They have a fitness center, sauna, jacuzzi, outdoor patio, and guest laundry -- and offer complimentary newspapers and continental breakfast. You'll feel quite at ease with their friendly staff.
Villa Toscana Guest House (3447 N. Halsted; 800-404-2643) is a European-style B&B with a low-key, relaxed atmosphere smack in the heart of Boystown's action, just blocks from the lakefront. Their distinctly appointed, air-conditioned rooms have private phones, cable TV, and wi-fi.
Comfort Inn and Suites Downtown (15 E. Ohio; 888-214-6418) is a restored 130-room hotel just off the Miracle Mile with many amenities, such as a fitness center with whirlpool and sauna, rooms with kitchenettes, breakfast with the morning paper, and high-speed internet. There is self-parking with in-out privileges, and the CTA Grand station (on the Red line) is just a block away. The lakefront, Michigan Avenue shops, restaurants, and entertainment of all kinds are a short and interesting walk away.
Located in the thick of Boystown, City Suites Hotel (933 Belmont; 800-248-9108; Cityinns.com/citysuites) offers premier amenities to complement its art deco interior, a theme that graces both the lobby and the guestrooms. Complimentary continental breakfast, afternoon cookies, free internet access, luxury robes, and access to Bally's Total Fitness Club are included in the charm.
Hotel Indigo (1244 N. Dearborn; 800-245-1258) is a 165-room boutique hotel in the Gold Coast (downtown area) with adjacent parking. Amenities include wi-fi and daily papers in each room. Their restaurant features a full menu and Starbucks coffee, and the bar serves tapas and fine Mediterranean wines.
Ashland Arms Guest House (6408 N. Clark; 312-498-9979; Ashlandarms.com) an adult urban leather/fetish bed-and-breakfast located right above Mephisto. They're ready to book lodgers in a suite of rooms geared to suit guests' fetish desires. Business partners Eric Kugleman and Michael Syrjanen share the pride and responsibilities to create their adult urban destination. Ashland Arms offers five themed fetish rooms: Leather, Sports, Rubber, Dreams, and Bunk. There's central AC; communal kitchen, dining and living room; continental breakfast on weekdays and prepared breakfast on weekends; a whirlpool bath for two and gang shower and available slings or swings. Contact Eric and Michael about group bookings.
Dining
Many local restaurants cater to the gay community. Enjoy the street scenery as well as the good food at Roscoe's (3356 N. Halsted), with its warm-weather sidewalk tables at Roscoe and Halsted -- the best corner seating on Halsted. The cafe is open Sunday through Thursday, noon to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday noon to 11 p.m., and offers sandwiches, wraps, salads, burgers, and more -- plus full bar service.
Ann Sather Restaurant (909 W. Belmont) has dinners for under ten dollars, breakfast all day, and cinnamon buns of renown. Owner Tom Tunney is in the thick of Chicago life -- he's alderman of the 44th ward, where this famous diner serves as the social nerve-center. There's free parking. Arco De Cuchilleros (3445 N. Halsted) has tasty tapas and Cornelia's (750 W. Cornelia) serves Italian fare at tranquil sidewalk tables with live entertainment nightly.
Wilde's Bar & Restaurant (3130 N. Broadway Avenue), located barely past Belmont, appeases both Boystown residents and regular families with standard American fare
Other restaurants around Halsted include: Firefly (3335 N. Halsted):Jack's Bistro (3201 N. Halsted); Las Mananitas (3523 N. Halsted), popular for Mexican food and great margaritas; Mark's Chop Suey (3343 N. Halsted); Nookies Tree (3334 N. Halsted), for breakfast or anytime; Pie Hole (737 W. Roscoe), serving custom pizza slices until 2:30am); and Halsted Bar & Grill (3441 N Halsted).
In Andersonville, Big Chicks (5024 N. Sheridan Road) and sister restaurant Tweet (5020 N. Sheridan Road) make for good gay and lesbian bites.
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