Gay paradise on the New England shore
By
Matt Mathrani
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Click on the link for a handy PDF version of our June 2008 Provincetown travel feature!
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Provincetown
Not a sleepy Portuguese fishing village anymore, Provincetown has morphed from artists' colony to a gay paradise on the New England seashore.
Located at the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, Provincetown is a hop from Boston -- about a two-and-a-half hours by car, 90 minutes by ferry, or 20-minutes by air. "P'town" extends its welcome embrace to gay men and lesbians alike.
The bustle commences come Memorial Day weekend (at the end of May) with three months of revelry climaxing in Carnival Week in mid-August. After that, although the pace slackens, the calendar is chocker with special weekends through the fall and into the holidays. Winter in Provincetown has its own special charms. Whatever the season, Ptown.org showcases the latest in events, lodgings, dining, shopping, and services.
Accommodations
Provincetown's many guesthouses and inns cater to every purse and taste. Most are open from about mid-April until about Halloween, though many have winterized, part of a growing trend to stay open year round. Most offer TVs, VCRs, phones, and refrigerators; several have kitchens or kitchenettes, many boast video libraries, and there are more private bathrooms, fireplaces, and rooftop sun decks than ever. Several places offer a range of options, from simple rooms to efficiency cottages or apartments. Many places have a five-night-minimum-stay policy during high season.
At the smart Admiral's Landing Guest House (158 Bradford; 800-934-0925) all rooms come with private baths and several have fireplaces.
The richly appointed Ampersand Guest House (6 Cottage; 800-574-9645), in the exclusive West End, is the pride of long-time hosts Robert and Ken. They offer rooms with private bathrooms and an apartment cottage. Some rooms here convert into suites, for friends who like to be close. Guests can enjoy a sun deck, water views, and a quiet English garden in the back.
Anchor Inn Beach House (175 Commercial; 800-858-6257) is a converted mansion on Provincetown's Captains' Row. It has its own private bayside beach.
The fabulous Boatslip Resort (161 Commercial Street; 800-547-3892) is a Provincetown institution and quite the bedrock of gay activity. This 45-room resort overlooks a huge deck and pool and the Provincetown Bay. During the season, the deck transforms into the Boatslip Tea Dance (4 to 7 p.m. daily) and everyone goes!
Check out the amazing detail at the Bradford Carver House (70 Bradford; 800-826-9083). Rooms are cozy and comfortable, and several are equipped with fireplaces.
Brass Key Guesthouse (67 Bradford; 800-842-9858) offers high-end accommodations. This expansive complex seems to keep expanding! Facilities include two pools and lots of sunning space.
The grandly handsome Carpe Diem (12 Johnson; 508-487-4242) features a back patio with a hot tub; and the third floor of the house features rooms with bay views. At this distinctive inn, the clientele appreciate the quiet atmosphere.
The amazing Carriage House (7 Central Street; 800-309-0248) is a delight. Plush carpeting, lots of mahogany decking, and a protected hot tub are just a few of the reasons to visit.
The well-known Chicago House (6 Winslow Street; 800-SEE-PTOWN) is one of the originals. It offers rooms, suites, and apartments, on a quiet side street in the center of town.
The distinctive Christopher's By The Bay (8 Johnson Street; 877-487-9263) offers relaxed yet sophisticated accommodations in this lovely center-of-town mansion. Christopher's offers lots of amenities, including a sunny courtyard area in the back of the house where breakfast is served, as well as a common room that encourages socializing among guests.
Commons (386 Commercial Street; 800-487-0784) is a beautifully restored 19th-century home with exposed wooden floors and spacious rooms, some with balconies and harbor views. The Commons complex includes a great restaurant upstairs overlooking Commercial Street, as well as a popular bistro bar and restaurant downstairs. The outside dining area is great for parade watching.
The famous Crown and Anchor (247 Commercial Street; 508-487-1430) offers some of the plushest hotel rooms in town. There's a harbor-side pool and deck, a lobby bar, and several other bars in the complex. (More on the bars later in the article.)
Crowne Pointe Inn (82 Bradford Street; 877-CROWNE1) is a work of art. This beautifully designed and constructed complex is open year round, and promotes special events throughout. There are two jacuzzis here in a protected deck area.
Enzo (186 Commercial Street; 508-4876-7555), located in the West End, offers five luxurious guestrooms in addition to the on-premises Grotta restaurant and bar. Expect the smell of roasted coffee and fresh baked pastries and crunchy granola!
Gallery Inn (3 Johnson Street; 800-676-3010) is low-key and friendly, with accommodations that include several guestrooms and several apartments. Guests have access to a large sun deck, and there's free parking. The Gallery Inn offers affordable pricing, and is open year-round.
The classic Gifford House (11 Carver; 800-434-0130) is an inn with a 140-year history. Wooden stairways and a grand lobby give it a step-back-in-time feeling. The Gifford House is the home of one of the town's hot dance bars, Purgatory (basement level), as well as the Porchside Bar and the Lobby Bar.
Grand View Inn (4 Conant Street; 888-268-9169) is a delightful Victorian captain's house that was built after the Civil War. There are fantastic vistas from several of their rooms, especially from their two decks, where you can enjoy views of Provincetown harbor, Land's End lighthouse, and the hilly West End. The English-style garden is a delight, and parking is available.
An "inn for all seasons," John Randall House (140 Bradford; 800-573-6700) is a Victorian-style home offering great rooms and an expanded continental breakfast, with fresh-baked homemade goodies and a perfect center-of-town location. An enclosed front porch and deck plus garden areas heighten relaxation at this retreat.
Moffett House (296-a Commercial Street; 800-990-8865) is another place tucked away on a private path in the middle of town.
Oxford House (8 Cottage Street; 888-456-9103) is elegant, luxurious, and upper-crust -- as befits its English owners. Expect complimentary transfers to the guesthouse should you arrive here by air, ferry, or bus.
Prince Albert Guest House (164-166 Commercial Street; 508-487-1850) is a complex of rooms, courtyards, and gardens in two former sea captains' houses. The houses boast large stately rooms, many with water views, and all with creature comforts and private baths. Three front courtyards flow together offering a large outdoor area to take in water views or the Commercial Street scene. A jacuzzi in the private rear garden makes for much conviviality.
At the end of Commercial Street you'll find the large, motel-style Provincetown Inn (1 Commercial Street; 508-487-2911), which also has a pool open to the public. The inn looks out over the Breakwater, which you can trek along to reach Long Point at the tip of Cape Cod. Meandering along the beach, with its picturesque lighthouse and community of singing sea-gulls, it's easy to forget the bustle of town.
Ranch (198 Commercial Street; 800-942-1542) represents 20 rooms of affordable fun, at ground zero of the Commercial Street action, next to the ever-popular Spiritus Pizza. It's an active place.
The beautiful, solid Revere Guest House (14 Court Street; 800-487-2292) is like new, having undergone a major renovation last year. All guestrooms feature private bathrooms. There's a secluded garden in back.
John and Rick host Seasons (160 Bradford; 800-563-0113), a restored 1860s whaling captain's home in the center of town. The immaculate rooms here come equipped with AC, cable TV, VCR/DVD, and CD players. There's free wi-fi, too. Chef Rick is responsible for the gourmet breakfasts, while partner John does the heavy lifting, keeping the inn and the ever-expanding garden and patio.
Victoria House (5 Standish Street; 877-TO-PTOWN) is a comfortable and affordable haven on a major side street, steps from restaurants, bars, shops, and the beach. Continental breakfast in the garden is included as you leisurely enjoy the scent of the ocean air.
The historic Watership Inn (7 Winthrop Street; 508-487-0094) offers rooms and efficiencies. One enters this inn through an inviting front porch, which catches big afternoon sun. There's a large garden in the back.
West End Inn (44 Commercial Street; 800-559-1220) offers four cozy guestrooms, and also three apartments, including a three-room suite and a large efficiency loft.
White Porch Inn (7 Johnson Street; 508-487-0592) is located smack in the center of town. Nine guestrooms are at hand, many offering diverse views of the bay.
White Wind (174 Commercial Street; 888-449-9463) continues to be a favorite choice for visitors looking for great accommodations and warm hospitality. The building here is a grand Victorian, with a one-of-a-kind front porch -- great for people-watching, The White Wind, open year round, enters its 11th season under the ownership of the ever-friendly Rob and Michael. All rooms are well-appointed, and some have water views and fireplaces.
Dining
It's fun to eat out in Provincetown. There's a great selection, and many restaurants have harbor-side dining. Don't expect to find McDonald's and its kin, as Provincetown does not allow them.
The famous Grand Central (5 Masonic Place), located across from the Atlantic House Bar, features great food and exceptional service. The restaurant and bar upstairs are decorated with art from the collection of the late Reggie Cabral, for years the force behind the A-House.
For an unforgettable meal and a true Provincetown experience, visit the renowned Martin House (157 Commercial Street). The food is superb; only the freshest ingredients go into the eclectic and passionately prepared dishes. And there's something for vegetarians. A fascinating collection of Provincetown paintings can be seen at this special local landmark.
Bubala's By The Bay (183-185 Commercial Street) is a fun, gay-friendly place with great-tasting, inexpensive homemade food and out door street-side dining, perfect for being seen. Ditto for the nearby Spiritus Pizza (190 Commercial Street). This pizza and ice-cream joint is famous for its after-hours, and sometimes rowdy, crowd. Enzo (186 Commercial Street), under the same ownership as the above two venues, offers classic Italian dining. The Grotta Bar tucked under the restaurant is a hip casual hangout with a speak-easy feel.
Commons (386 Commercial Street) features classic and innovative bistro cuisine as well as fresh seafood and gourmet pizzas from their wood-burning stove. The Commons offers indoor as well as rooftop dining, with views to the bay.
Vegetarians and carnivores alike may want to visit Far Land Provisions (150 Bradford Street) to stock up on edibles or get made-to-order sandwiches.
Jimmy's Hideaway (179 Commercial Street) offer affordable tavern cuisine, brought to you by Jimmy McNulty (of Uncle Charlie's and Lobster Pot fame) and Raife (of the local Gallerani's).
Lobster Pot (321 Commercial Street) features fresh seafood and lobster. The entrance on Commercial Street doubles as a fish market, while the restaurant in the back sits over the harbor.
Fanizzi's By The Sea (539 Commercial Street) offers an unhurried ambiance and fantastic harbor side views.
You'll find the popular Squealing Pig (335 Commercial Street, formerly Fat Jacks) next door.
Bayside Betsy's (177 Commercial Street) is another popular waterfront restaurant and bar.
Sal's Place (99 Commercial Street) is the wonderful Italian waterfront restaurant popular with locals.
Bradford Natural Market (141 Bradford Street) is a godsend for natural and organic food, including produce, fresh baked goods, and specialty groceries.
Going out
Atlantic House (8 Masonic Place), or the A-House, is known the world over as the traditional favorite dance club in Provincetown and it's packed all season. Upgrades to the dance space and a super sound-and-light system allow for more carefree fun on the dance floor, which grooves to the latest dance music of DJ David LaSalle, this year celebrating 28 years at the musical helm. Atlantic House also boasts ample outdoor areas that are perfect for cruising, cooling off, and chatting with friends. The Friday-night theme parties with cash prizes for best acts -- or best buns -- are an institution, hosted by hysterical drag divas, though the A-House is a sure bet any night of the week. It's one of the few places open throughout the year. Next door to the main bar is the Little Bar and the upstairs Macho Bar. There's no cover charge, and here it gets packed with a hot, slightly more mature mix of local and out-of-town men. The place has a special air of freedom and abandon unique to the Atlantic House complex of bars. You can really let loose at the A-House, whip off your shirt, lift up your skirt, and party on down
Known for the "World's most famous tea dance," Boatslip Resort (161 Commercial Street) is full-service 45-room resort. As well, it's the number-one place for summer afternoon tea dancing by the sea. It's a full-service resort open to the public. A popular pastime for locals and visitors is to rent a chaise lounge and enjoy their heated pool while sampling grilled fare and cocktails from their deck-side "Grille," delivered right to your chair. The Wet Spot Lounge, in the lobby, is open till 1 a.m. nightly.
When the Boatslip tea dance ends at 7 p.m. a crowd has already begun to gather in front of the Pied Piper (193a Commercial Street; Piedbar.com) for their After Tea T-Dance.
Alibi (291 Commercial Street) is a good place to sample local flavor, including drag shows. This bar draws all types, really, including the Commercial Street curious.
Post Office Cafe (303 Commercial Street), with a restaurant downstairs and live entertainment upstairs, is always a hit with the gay folk.
Vixen (336 Commercial Street, at the Pilgrim House Inn) is a rollicking dance bar and nightclub, predominantly for women, but also attracting gay men and gay-friendly straight folk.
Club Purgatory, Lobby Bar and the Porchside Lounge at the Gifford House (9-11 Carver) were mentioned previously.
Finally, there are the bars of the Crown and Anchor (247 Commercial Street; 508-487-1430). The complex includes Paramount Nightclub (which doubles as a cabaret theater), Wave video bar, and The Vault leather bar, and a popular pool area with outside bars.
Shopping and services
At Ptown Bikes (42 Bradford Street) Bill and his experienced staff can set you up with a rental, help you select a new one from the store's large inventory, and even fix your old bike. Their selection of bikes and accessories is truly comprehensive.
From the road it's about a 20-minute hike to the water, where you bang a left to find the guys. If you're up for a more vigorous ride, explore the bike trails of the Cape Cod National Seashore. Horseback riding, air tours, and dune buggy tours are among the other get-out-and-enjoy-the-fresh-air activities.
In-season, Commercial Street is a parade -- with drag queens, pectorally gifted men, and families. Ergo, walking is the best way to navigate this busy thoroughfare.
To look and feel your best head to the West End Salon (155 Commercial Street) helps bring out one's inner beauty potential with the latest, most innovative techniques. This is a spa for body and soul, with massage, henna tattoos, tanning, and more in store. Doug, the salon's owner, also practices his art in Cambridge, and he's in Miami Beach during the off-season. West End Salon also has its own dock and people from all over quite simply sail in for the Epicurean treats!
For muscle boys and girls, the Provincetown Gym (81 Shank Painter Road) facilities include a full gym, yoga and aerobics classes, and exercise programs. Mussel Beach (35 Bradford Street) is the other gym where buff boys and girls go to for aerobic fitness and to pump iron.
Cyber Cove (237 Commercial Street, second floor, in the Whaler's Wharf complex) is Provincetown's "business center." Wired Puppy (379 Commercial Street) is Provincetown's gleaming, coffee shop where they offer free wireless access. And the number of "wired" guesthouses around town is impressive.
City Video (193 Commercial Street) is there for those seeking that more classic form of entertainment.
MG Leather (338 Commercial Street) touts leather goods and accessories and a variety of adult products.
You'll find excellent product and friendly service at the Provincetown Fudge Factory (210 Commercial Street). Say hi to John the proprietor. He's the guy in the back, stirring the fudge vats. Their "butter creme fudge" has been hand crafted since 1984.
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