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Architectural charms and vibrant gay life await
By
Michael Thompson
Barcelona
Capital of Catalonia, Spain's second-largest city draws commerce and tourism from not only the continent but the entire world
Be aware when you arrive in Barcelona, that you're not just in Spain, but also the distinct region of Catalonia. Catalonia's centuries of history, with connections to many different parts of the Mediterranean, have bestowed a unique culture. Though now part of Spain, the Catalan people retain their distinct language and sense of their own nationality. Catalan and Castilian Spanish are both used here so you're as welcome with bienvenidos as with benvinguts. French, English and other European languages are commonly understood as well, particularly in the gay community.
Remains of the old city walls date back to Roman times, and Barcelona has one of the largest extant medieval sections in Europe. El Gótica (or the Gothic Quarter) is just to the east of the throngs congregating in Plaça Catalunya day and night, or roaming the length of La Rambla. This whole area is full of restaurants, ranging from chain sandwich shop fare to haute cuisine, bars and clubs, plus an abundance of shops and vendors' stands.
To the west of here, the El Raval district was a neighborhood of varied immigrants. Though gentrified, it remains culturally mixed, with interesting restaurants and stores.
Newer areas of Barcelona, dating from the 19th century, feature broad tree-lined boulevards and architecture that astounds in detailed exuberance and sophistication, equal to any great capital of the world.
Lodging
Barcelona has many gay or gay-friendly hotels. Axel Hotel Barcelona (Aribau 33; +34-93-323-2570) is a premium gay hotel that's "hetero friendly." With beautiful rooms, an in-house gym, a rooftop pool and bar, a restaurant and lounge, and a perfect location between La Rambla and the gay district, Axel has many advantages for travelers. Not the least expensive option in town, they sometimes have special online rates.
A comfortable hostal with two locations, one on each side of the gay district, Absolut Centro Hostal (Casanova 72; +34-64-955-0238) offers both convenience and affordability in "El Quadrat d'Or" surrounded by bars, shopping, restaurants and the sights. Rates for their one-, two-, three-, or four-person bedrooms (with bathrooms), range between 35 and 85 euros. Free wi-fi internet is available here for those with laptops, and Jorge and staff are charmingly helpful with tips about the city.
In the Gothic Quarter ("El Bario Gotica") Hotel California (Rauric 14; +34-93-308-1164), near La Rambla, has single rooms starting at 49 euros, breakfast included. Their 31 rooms all have satellite TV, phone, full bath, and air conditioning. In the same district, Hotel Regencia Colon (Sagristan 13-17; +34-93-318-98-58) is right off Cathedral Square, with 50 non-smoking rooms, doubles and triples, wide flat-screen TVs, marble baths, and breakfast buffet.
All rooms at the well-situated Barcelona City Centre Hostal (Balmes 60; +34-65-390-0039) have private bathrooms, free satellite TV, and are soundproofed. They also have rooms in a fourth-floor walk up at Barcelona City Ramblas (La Rambla 133; +34-65-390-0039) that are even less expensive. Hostal Baires (Avinyo 37; +34-93-319-7774), also in Bario Gotica, is between La Rambla and the wharf, and just a 15 minute walk to the beach.
Eos Guest House (Gran Via 575; +34-93-451-8772) is a gay and lesbian guesthouse at gay central, with 10 rooms, internet connection, and a buffet breakfast until 1 p.m. Their inexpensive prices cause them to fill quickly, so book well ahead.
Other hotels include: Fashion House (Bruc 13; +34-637-90-4044), with 12 rooms -- five with bath, wi-fi, and terrace; Barcelona Rooms (Comte D'Urgell 63; +34-629-159-759), featuring 12 brightly colored rooms in midtown, on two floors with four shared bathrooms, and fully equipped kitchen; Agua Alegre Hostal (Roger De Lluria 47; +34-93-487-8032), with a solarium and garden terrace, internet connection, and simple but comfortable rooms at moderate prices; Central Town Accomodations (Ronda Sant Pau 51; +34-93-442-7057), offering exclusively gay rooms with balconies and apartments.
For a romantic getaway by the sea, Beauty and the Beach Bed & Breakfast (Paseo de Taulat 136; +34-93-266-0562) is heaven-sent. Hosts Jose Maria and Matthew will make your stay a delight. They're opposite Barcelona's only nude beach, La Mar Bella, yet not far by metro from anywhere else in the city.
Bars and clubs
The gay district, or Gayxample, has many bars and restaurants within short distances of one another. The streets here are filled with men and their friends, late into the night.
Punto BCN (Muntaner 63) is one of Barcelona's most established fixtures in gay social life. Open earlier than most at 6 p.m., they mix a broad cross-section of men from among the many subsets of the community, along with tourists who put it first on their list of places to check out. Next door, La Chapelle (Muntaner 67) has a long and narrow bar that's abuzz with conversations from early evenings. Quieter tables and chairs can be found both in the back and on the front sidewalk. A wall here might captivate you with its antique church icons and relics.
Dietrich Bar (Consell de Cent 255) is a large two-level bar, going strong for nine years. Hang out, make new friends, or check out the nightly drag shows. A sense of humor is demonstrated by their portrait of "la Dietrich." Its sibling bar Atame (Calle Consell de Cent 257) is right next door, and sometimes the shows move over here from Dietrich's.
At Dacksy (Consell de Cent 247) you'll hear many languages mixing and switching comfortably back and forth, reflecting gay Barcelona's international flavor. Twenty- and thirty-something guys who know one another set the tone here, but they're quick to include newcomers as well. Two doors down, Strass (Consell de Cent 245) attracts an exuberant crowd that welcomes visitors, and they have drag spectaculars every night of the week except Fridays (when they have strippers), and Saturdays.
Plata (Consell de Cent 233), at the next corner, is thrown open to the night air, exuding stylish comfort with table and couch seating, a warm decor, soft lighting, and giant video displays overlooking all. An urbane clientele here can see and be seen by all who walk by.
El Cangrejo (Villaroel 86) is the club with the magic of the moment, overflowing with the freshest energy of gay Barcelona; men and women, old and young -- everyone seems linked and in constant motion. The crowd is predominantly Iberian, but also includes a zesty dash of Latin American flavors.
People Lounge (Villarroel 71) is gentlemen-only, for drinks while Broadway show tunes play in the background. Gracious hosts Jose and Martin, cute bartenders, overstuffed sofas, and attractive surroundings make this a pleasant and relaxing place to visit and they have wi-fi here too. Gays Abroad meets here every Thursday at 10pm. Members socialize, network and share information on how to do things in Spain. They're a a handy resource for newcomers, and a good opportunity for Spanish speakers to practice English. Directly opposite, Mandarina (Diputació 157) is small, open to the street, and draws a young and offbeat crowd. Two others on this street include Zancanalla (Diputació 206), a small mixed wine and cocktail lounge, and El Berro (Diputació 180).
Castro Restaurant (Casanova 85) is a restaurant in the heart of the gay district that will more than satisfy the most demanding gourmet with fine Mediterranean cuisine; it's very gay sociable too.
Sweet Cafe & Bar (Casanova 75) is another longtime favorite lounge, with a loyal following of regulars and more open interior space than many other area bars. In the same building, Zelta's (Casanova 75) has muted lighting and understated panache that attracts an explosion of beautiful people at midnight. Some of the hottest locals in town come to mingle and dance on their small dance floor, but the DJ manages not to overwhelm conversations. Ambar (Casanova 71), another nearby lounge, isn't on maps but gay and straight groups, along with young alternative types, mix easily here.
Bacon Bear Bar (Casanova 64), as with bear bars most everywhere, is one of the friendliest in town. The no-attitude pub ambience includes music that won't drown out your conversation. Join them for snacks on Thursdays, and don't forget to check out their back room, if you're craving some of those special (bear) hugs.
Other strictly men's bars are a bit apart from the Gayxample. La Base (Casanova 201), a men's sex bar eight blocks to the north, began Barcelona's first naked nights. Their website announces each night's events, and they have darkroom, leather, and underwear parties. Berlin Dark (Passatge Prunera 18) is a new sex club where most people are naked, and some are in military briefs or leather thongs. It's friendly and conversational around the bar, from which you can move into their play areas. Here they feature wrestling nights, fetish events, piss parties, slave/master sessions... you get the idea.
New Chaps (Diagonal 365) is a leather bar that's open daily, from 9 p.m., with a good range of ages, a downstairs darkroom, and hot porno. Owner Jordi takes a special interest in making all feel welcome.
Bear Factory (Passatge Domingo 3) is a leather and bear dance bar with porn videos, special parties and a toilet darkroom.
Quizás (Diputacio 161) is a cafe and bar for fetish men, with underwear parties and leather/rubber/uniform nights on the schedule.
Other more mixed places include: Burdel (Carme 74), a small gem at the edge of El Ravel district that's popular with tourists and expats; and Aire Discoteca (Valencia 236) with a throng of energetic young folk, mostly women, who come in groups and bring their guy friends. They play retro music favorites, recorded before most people here were born.
Chiringo Gay Beach Bar (Ronda del Litoral Salida 23) is the gay bar and cafe at Playa de la Mar Bella, open daily from 10 a.m. to midnight. Get an all-over tan here if you like; there are no restrictions on nudity at this beach, and they attract a wide range of all kinds of people. Go to stop Poble Nou on the L4 metro and hike to the water, or take bus number 41.
Big dance clubs in Barcelona do very elaborate weekend "sessions" with constantly changing concepts, technologies old and new, top DJs, talented performers, erotic displays, and extravagant costumes -- all vying with one another to provide some of the most exiting and transcendent nights-out, anywhere in the world, all night and then well into the daylight hours.
Metro Disco (Sepulveda 185) is open every night, with drag and cabaret shows (Sundays and Mondays) and strippers on Tuesdays. House, Spanish, and 80s music plays on two floors with different atmospheres in each of their four bars on weekends.
DBoy (Ronda Sant Pere 19-21) offers two distinct dance halls, three bars, and a party that goes all night long. Deep House gives way to livelier music as the evening progresses, and every night's session is different, from the DJs to the performances. On Sunday nights, Café Olé is the tea dance here, and after midnight "La Madame" is another dance event at this same address. For those who want to continue dancing after 6:30 a.m. Fridays or Saturdays, Souvenir (Noi del Sucre 75) is an after-hours club to party well into the new day, also with lots of shows, performances, and top DJs.
Space (Tarragona 141-7) is a big weekend dance event which proclaimed in recent ads that "everyone deserves to be fucked." Maybe it's the Ibiza connection: this straight and gay mixed high-energy party began there over 20 years ago.
Arena is a complex of late night dance venues, one of Barcelona's most venerable institutions. Arena Madre (Balmes 32) draws a huge crowd of young gay, alternative, and mixed genders to their weekend dances. Open nightly they bring people in on weekdays with the likes of Mondays strippers and Wednesdays comedy shows. Around the corner Arena Classic (Diputació 233), Arena VIP Dance Club and in the same building, Arena Dandy Dance Club (Gran Via 593) are other weekend dance events from the same folks.
Martin's Disco (Paseig de Gracia 130) is a popular men-only dance party that takes place each first Saturday.
Shops and saunas
Boyberry (Calle Calabria 96) is so much more than your typical sex shop. They carry all the usual X-rated videos, but they also boast the largest gay-themed library of films to rent or purchase in all of Spain. In the back, 14 cabins are set up in a darkroom maze area ideal for cruising. While their LCD flat- screen TVs play the hottest movies available, get to know your neighbor through one of several glory holes in the walls. An all-day admission pass is six euros, half that if you're under 27, and it allows for in/out privileges. Your ticket price includes full and unlimited access to their internet room, where you can cruise the web either from their machines or your own. They also have a lounge where you can buy inexpensive beers and other refreshments from their vending machines. They also give out free passes to local bars, and have all local guides, maps, and magazines. Staff here is really friendly and helpful, and they provide bike racks and lockers, too.
Nostromo Gay Sex-shop (Diputació 208), is another local gay sex shop with cabins, and a dark room.
D'Arness (Casanova 63) is a sex and leather store with internet, toys, clothing, and lubricants.
For the company of escorts there are two services, each with websites to help you make a selection: American Boys (Ronda Universidad 23) is near Plaça Catalunya and offers massages, too; and Neron (Consejo de Ciento 185). Both have rooms, and Neron, a jacuzzi onsite.
Ovlas (Via Layetana 33) has sexy clothing of many kinds: beach wear, underwear, and cutting-edge dance wear to keep you fashionable during all these opportunities in Barcelona to doff outer garments.
ES4U (Casanova 56) is another gay fashion boutique.
Punto BCN (Muntaner 63) has souvenir tees, caps, posters, CDs and other odds and ends illustrated with logos from their clubs around town.
Grupo Pases has five saunas in Barcelona and three more in Valencia and Seville. Check out their website for exact locations and directions. These places are well maintained with amenities such as swimming pools, dry saunas, steambaths, and jacuzzis, as well as darkrooms, labyrinths, cruising areas, and private rooms. All locations offer snacks; some, bars and cafes.
The preeminent location, if you had to choose among them, is Sauna Barcelona (Tuset 1). This is "el bombón del Grupo Pases," the best and most modern of their facilities, and also offers massage, aromatherapy, chocolate bath, light treatment, and follicle massage. A huge 12 by 36 foot jacuzzi, private cabins (some with hot tubs), along with amenities common to all their bathhouses, make this a place to vacation from your vacation!
Sauna Galilea (Calabria 59) is another local tubs on four levels, with Happy Sex Hours before 4 p.m., or after 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday.
Events and resources
EuroGames Barcelona 2008 will feature 28 sporting events with an expected 5,000 participants from all corners of Europe, July 24 to 27, along with simultaneous cultural and leisure activities. One such event is Gay Circus, a two-hour spectacular of acrobats, trapeze artists and other circus acts.
Circuit Festival Barcelona, billed as Europe's biggest-ever gay event, will take place August 4 to 11 with water park activities, dance parties with renowned DJs, singers, performance artists, and more. Loveball (Loveball.info) is another big circuit party expected to return August 1 to 7 this year.
The Barcelona Gay & Lesbian Film Festival is one of the highlights of the Catalan queer calendar in October and November with everything from gay feature films to shorts and also porn screenings. See the local press for schedules.
Other annual events include: Carnival, with celebrations just before Lent;Bearcelona, a big event in March for bears and their admirers, and this summer with cruises to London and Rome as well; and La Merce, the occasion for a week of festivities in September to honor Barcelona's patron saint.
For local news and updates on local gay social life, Nois Magazine is a great resource and they have the best, most up to date map too. Gaybarcelona.net has online information for the area.
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